Why Buy Portable Dishwashers

Not all have spacious kitchens or huge houses that can house free standing dishwasher models, nor can everyone afford a built in model which would incur installation costs. The simplicity of portable dishwasher models is that they can be used with as little effort as plugging in the connections to a sink or wash basin pipe which not only supplies required water, but also facilitates drainage of the water.

Quite obviously, the installation is not a permanent one and is one that can be easily removed and the appliance stowed away in a convenient storage space to be used as and when required. A factor to be checked when opting for or otherwise considering portable dishwasher models is to make sure that the motor is a reversible one servicing both the spraying of the water as well drainage of used water, without which the dishwasher may find it difficult to pump out or drain the water, what with the fact that the drain tubes may actually have to be lifted to reach into the sink.

Portable dishwashers make sense in different situations, particularly in instances of limited space. To answer the question, why buy a portable dishwasher, in households, where elaborate cooking is reserved for thanksgiving or Christmas dinners, a portable dishwasher makes perfect sense as one to be used on occasions when there is a high turnover of dishes. Most often portable free standing dishwashers are brought in to service a load of dirty dishes and then moved back or stowed away after use.

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The Dishwashing Domain

Dishwashers are the ultra-convenient, time saving kitchen appliance you need to own. Once you’ve owned your first dishwasher, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without one. Meal times are much more pleasant when they aren’t followed by the monotony of hand washing and drying a mountain of dirty dishes. UK studies have shown that owning a dishwasher saves you 2 to 3 weeks of laborious kitchen work every year. Just think of the extra leisure time you could enjoy!

The history of the dishwasher began way back in 1850. The first dishwasher patent was applied for by American Joel Houghton for a wooden machine with a hand turned wheel which simply splashed water on to the dishes. However, the first practical dishwasher was invented in 1886 by Josephine Cochran. It made a big splash with restaurants and hotels at the 1893 World Fair. But it wasn’t until the 1950s that electronic washing machines became efficient enough to make them attractive purchases for the average family.

Modern units are also becoming increasingly popular because of the positive health spin-offs of their use. Thanks to their multiple rinse cycles and the fact that the water is heated to a temperature much higher than the human hand can stand, dishwashers are far superior to traditional hand washing. High temperature washing kills more germs than hand washing and the fact that you don’t have to use dirty, unhygienic hand towels to dry the dishes also means a safer wash every time.

Today there are dishwashers to suit every lifestyle, kitchen design and personal taste. From full size built in under-counter models that can deal with 14 place settings, through to tiny countertop models perfect for small kitchens, and even the new independent drawer style dishwashers – the choice is getting better by the day. But, with so many different brands around the globe offering so many different appliances boasting a confusing range of options, you need independent advise to find the dishwasher that will suit your needs best.

It’s important to realize that the most expensive dishwashers do not necessarily do the best job. Neither are they the most energy and water efficient, or the quietest running.

Guide4Home dishwasher review - countertop and drawer style models.

Make It Start with a Door Switch – Dishwasher Repair

You wouldn't even know your dishwasher had one until it isn’t working. These little switches are tucked inside the control panel of your dishwasher and most times are a part of the door latch. The door latch pulls the door securely to the main body of your dishwasher and prevents water from leaking during a cycle. If your dishwasher doesn't start, it could be due to a faulty door switch.

How the door switch works

When the dishwasher door is open, the switch is off. Inside your dishwasher tub will be a metal or plastic prong. Close and latch the door. The prong will depress the door switch completely and the circuit will close allowing the dishwasher to start. Check the prong to make sure it's not loose or bent and it's properly activating the door switch.

It is important to disconnect the dishwasher from its power source before attempting any repair. You can unplug the dishwasher from the outlet, remove the fuse from your fuse box, or flick the breaker switch on your circuit panel. This will prevent you from getting an electric shock.

What a door switch looks like and where it's located

Typically a dishwasher door switch is an inch long. It can be black or red and has metal prongs called terminals protruding from the body. Some door switches have two terminals and some have three.

The terminals can be a common terminal (COM), normally closed terminal (NC) or a normally open terminal (NO). Switches with only two terminals will either have a COM and a NO, or a COM and an NC. Door switches with three terminals have COM, NC, and a NO.

Your dishwasher's door switch will be behind the control panel on the front of the unit. It may be necessary to remove the inner panel of the door first. You can do this by removing a few screws. The screws at the bottom of the door are for the hinges. You do not need to remove the whole door for this repair.

Once the inner panel is removed you may find another smaller panel covering the back of the control panel held in place with screws or clips. By removing this panel you will gain access to the latch assembly housing the door switch.

How to remove the switch

Carefully use needle nose pliers to pull the wires leading from the harness off the terminals. For door switches that have a locking clip, depress the lever as you gently pull the harness away from the terminal.

Take your time while removing switches that are a part of the latch assembly or that have a bracket. If you rush and break the switch's housing you will end up having to replace more parts.

How to test your door switch

Use an ohmmeter to test the switch for continuity. This test is for door switches with three terminals.

1. Set your ohmmeter to measure resistance at a scale of Rx1.
2. Touch the metal tips of the test leads together and zero your ohmmeter by adjusting the thumbwheel in the front of the meter until the needles reads "0" on the scale.
3. Touch one meter lead to the COM terminal and the other lead to the NO terminal. Do not push in on the actuator.
4. Your meter should give a reading of infinity, meaning the circuit is open, and there is no continuity.
5. Without moving the meter's leads, press down on the actuator until you hear a 'click'.
6. With the 'click' of the actuator, the meter should produce a resistance reading of zero ohms. This means the circuit is closed and continuity is present. (You will only hear this click with a door switch with three terminals.)
7. Keep the meter lead that is touching the COM terminal in place, but move the other meter lead from the NO terminal to the NC terminal.
8. When the actuator is released, you should receive a resistance reading of zero ohms.
9. Now set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale and touch one meter lead to the NO terminal and the other meter lead to the NC terminal.
10. The resistance reading between these two leads should be infinite.
11. Finally take a resistance reading from both the NC terminal and the NO terminal to any metal mounting hardware that is a part of the switch assembly. You should receive a normal reading of infinity.

Any readings that differ from the tests above are signs of a defective door switch that will need to be replaced.

Replace the old switch with a new one, using the same process as explained above. Reassemble the inner door panel and reconnect your dishwasher to its power supply. Don't forget to replace your fuse or turn the breaker switch back on. Run your dishwasher through a cycle to make sure it's working properly.

Total Appliance Parts: Helping you repair your dishwasher and other major appliances. Learn how to repair your own appliance and find parts for your dishwasher, refrigerator and more at EasyApplianceParts.com.

Basic Dishwasher Installation Tips

Installing a built-in dishwasher requires basic mechanical, electrical, and plumbing skills, so the average handy person can install a dishwasher in 1 to 3 hours depending on if it is a new installation or a replacement dishwasher. If you are replacing an existing dishwasher, it will take less time.

New Installation

1. Prepare the cabinet area in which the dishwasher will be installed. The opening should be 24 inches wide for most models, 24 inches deep and 34 1/2" from the floor to the underside of the countertop. The back wall can not have pipes or wires on it. The power and water supply lines will come into the cabinet in the 4"X4" area at the bottom back of the cabinet through a 1 1/2" hole. Make sure the floor is level and the cabinet is squared.

2. Choose your drain method based on your local codes and height of the drain tee. Some codes require an air gap. If the drain tee is less than 18 inches from the floor, you must use an air gap. If an air gap is not required and the tee is over 18 inches from the floor, you can use the loop method for the drain connection. If the drain hose will be connected to a garbage disposal, you have to remove the knock out plug so that the dishwasher will drain.

3. Inspect or install wiring by making sure there is a 120V, 60Hz dedicated circuit with a 15 or 20-amp breaker or time delay fuse. Wiring has to be 2 wire with a ground and rated for 75 degrees Celcius or 176 degrees Farenheit. The wiring can come into the cabinet from either side in the rear bottom area. The hole should be a maximum of 1 1/2", and it can be the same hole used the the water supply line and drain hose if its being hardwired. If it is a flexible power cord, it must have a separate hole. Hardwiring cable will come up the right side along the bottom 24 inches of the cabinet to the right front electrical connection on the dishwasher.

4. Prepare the water supply line that enters through the 1 1/2" hole in the rear bottom of the cabinet. Turn off the water to install a hand shut-off valve under the sink. The water connection is on the left side of the dishwasher. Use 3/8" O.D. copper line to extend a minimum of 19 inches from the rear wall. The water heater should be set between 120 and 150 degrees (closer to 120 if children are in the home to prevent scalding accidents) and the pressure should be between 20-120 PSI.

5. Prepare the dishwasher by checking the door balance and adjusting the spring tension if necessary. If the legs have to be attached, do that close to where it will be installed.

6. Connect the drain hose to the dishwasher's drain port if it did not come factory-installed. Position the electrical wiring and water supply lines so that the base of the dishwasher will not catch them. Slide the dishwasher in front of the opening so that you can feed the drain hose through the hole you drilled for it.

7. Inch-by-inch slide the dishwasher into the cabinet as you fee the drain hose through its hole. Stop with a few inches left and make sure nothing is kinked or pinched. If all is in good order, push the dishwasher all the way in so that the edges of the door are behind the cabinet frame. Test the door for smooth opening and closing.

8. Level the dishwasher front to back and side to side by adjusting the leveling legs.

9. Align the brackets and secure the dishwasher to the countertop according the manufacturer's instructions.

10. Through the access panel, connect the water supply line and electrical supply. Also connect the drain hose under the sink. You are ready to do a wet test with the "rinse only" cycle. Check for leaks and proper draining.

Replacing an Existing Dishwasher

You will not need to drill the holes since they will already be there from the existing dishwasher. However, you do need to inspect the wiring and plumbing to make sure they are capable of servicing the new dishwasher. Once that is established you should turn the power off at the main and turn the water supply off before beginning the removal of the old dishwasher. All lines and wires must first be disconnected. Take the drain hose off the garbage disposal or drain pipe under the sink. If the dishwasher has a power cord, you need to unplug it. If the dishwasher is hardwired, you have to open the access panel and electrical junction box. Remove the wire nuts and disconnect the black and white wires. Also remove the ground screw to disconnect the green ground wire. Use a catch pan while disconnecting the water supply line. Once all of these lines and wires have been disconnected, you can take out the screws and brackets that hold the dishwasher in its place and carefully pull out the old dishwasher.

Then follow the same procedures to install the new dishwasher with the exception of drilling the holes and running the wiring and water supply lines.

Once you have installed your new dishwasher and tested it for leaks, you are ready to start cleaning.

Dan is a part-time appliances repairman and with his dishwasher website at http://www.alldishwashers.com, he gives reviews of both commercial and residential models and states common problems that he encounters with each one, with solutions! To learn more visit the dishwasher reviews website.

Basic Dishwasher Installation Tips

Installing a built-in dishwasher requires basic mechanical, electrical, and plumbing skills, so the average handy person can install a dishwasher in 1 to 3 hours depending on if it is a new installation or a replacement dishwasher. If you are replacing an existing dishwasher, it will take less time.

New Installation

1. Prepare the cabinet area in which the dishwasher will be installed. The opening should be 24 inches wide for most models, 24 inches deep and 34 1/2" from the floor to the underside of the countertop. The back wall can not have pipes or wires on it. The power and water supply lines will come into the cabinet in the 4"X4" area at the bottom back of the cabinet through a 1 1/2" hole. Make sure the floor is level and the cabinet is squared.

2. Choose your drain method based on your local codes and height of the drain tee. Some codes require an air gap. If the drain tee is less than 18 inches from the floor, you must use an air gap. If an air gap is not required and the tee is over 18 inches from the floor, you can use the loop method for the drain connection. If the drain hose will be connected to a garbage disposal, you have to remove the knock out plug so that the dishwasher will drain.

3. Inspect or install wiring by making sure there is a 120V, 60Hz dedicated circuit with a 15 or 20-amp breaker or time delay fuse. Wiring has to be 2 wire with a ground and rated for 75 degrees Celcius or 176 degrees Farenheit. The wiring can come into the cabinet from either side in the rear bottom area. The hole should be a maximum of 1 1/2", and it can be the same hole used the the water supply line and drain hose if its being hardwired. If it is a flexible power cord, it must have a separate hole. Hardwiring cable will come up the right side along the bottom 24 inches of the cabinet to the right front electrical connection on the dishwasher.

4. Prepare the water supply line that enters through the 1 1/2" hole in the rear bottom of the cabinet. Turn off the water to install a hand shut-off valve under the sink. The water connection is on the left side of the dishwasher. Use 3/8" O.D. copper line to extend a minimum of 19 inches from the rear wall. The water heater should be set between 120 and 150 degrees (closer to 120 if children are in the home to prevent scalding accidents) and the pressure should be between 20-120 PSI.

5. Prepare the dishwasher by checking the door balance and adjusting the spring tension if necessary. If the legs have to be attached, do that close to where it will be installed.

6. Connect the drain hose to the dishwasher's drain port if it did not come factory-installed. Position the electrical wiring and water supply lines so that the base of the dishwasher will not catch them. Slide the dishwasher in front of the opening so that you can feed the drain hose through the hole you drilled for it.

7. Inch-by-inch slide the dishwasher into the cabinet as you fee the drain hose through its hole. Stop with a few inches left and make sure nothing is kinked or pinched. If all is in good order, push the dishwasher all the way in so that the edges of the door are behind the cabinet frame. Test the door for smooth opening and closing.

8. Level the dishwasher front to back and side to side by adjusting the leveling legs.

9. Align the brackets and secure the dishwasher to the countertop according the manufacturer's instructions.

10. Through the access panel, connect the water supply line and electrical supply. Also connect the drain hose under the sink. You are ready to do a wet test with the "rinse only" cycle. Check for leaks and proper draining.

Replacing an Existing Dishwasher

You will not need to drill the holes since they will already be there from the existing dishwasher. However, you do need to inspect the wiring and plumbing to make sure they are capable of servicing the new dishwasher. Once that is established you should turn the power off at the main and turn the water supply off before beginning the removal of the old dishwasher. All lines and wires must first be disconnected. Take the drain hose off the garbage disposal or drain pipe under the sink. If the dishwasher has a power cord, you need to unplug it. If the dishwasher is hardwired, you have to open the access panel and electrical junction box. Remove the wire nuts and disconnect the black and white wires. Also remove the ground screw to disconnect the green ground wire. Use a catch pan while disconnecting the water supply line. Once all of these lines and wires have been disconnected, you can take out the screws and brackets that hold the dishwasher in its place and carefully pull out the old dishwasher.

Then follow the same procedures to install the new dishwasher with the exception of drilling the holes and running the wiring and water supply lines.

Once you have installed your new dishwasher and tested it for leaks, you are ready to start cleaning.

Dan is a part-time appliances repairman and with his dishwasher website at http://www.alldishwashers.com, he gives reviews of both commercial and residential models and states common problems that he encounters with each one, with solutions! To learn more visit the dishwasher reviews website.